Descriptions and photos of climbing tours in the European Alps

Three members of the Bearsden Venture Scout Unit — James Cullen, Colin Deuchars and Alan Ingram — recently returned from a four-week mountaineering tour of Alpine Europe in
which they climbed four of the major peaks.
Travelling by a Ford Transit minibus, they ﬁrst visited the Zillertal Alps in Austria where, due to excessive snow conditions they were only able to climb a minor peak, the Am Horn (8,803ft).
However this was to be compensated for by fine conditions on subsequent climbs.

The Ortler:

From Austria, the party travelled to Solden in Stelvio National Park of Northern Italy.
Although there was a severe thunderstorm in the evening of arrival, the followng morning dawned clear with magnificent views of the surrounding alpine peaks
including their ojective, The Ortler, the highest at 12,691 feet.
The climbing sacks were packed and the convenient local chairlift used to attain altitude on the ascent to the Payer Hutte at a height of 9,815 feet.
At the hut, two other parties were met who also planned to tackle the Ortler. It was learned that no ascent had yet been made this year.

The Ortler

The next morning, the party roped up and set off from the hut at 3.30 a.m.
The route first traversed a snow field, contoured round a rocky outcrop of the main ridge, then descended abruptly before the main ascent.
This was up steep snow fields, made strenuous due to the softness of the snow - too soft for the use of crampons.
A crevassed zone led to a final steep ascent to the summit and a fine panorama.

Finsteraarhorn:

The next climb was to be the Finsteraarhorn in Switzerland.
The journey involved the crossing of several of the major Alpine road passes including the Stelvia ( 8957ft ) and Furka ( 7901ft ).
The Finsteraarhorn at 13,890 feet is one of the select group of over 4000m peaks in Europe and is the highest in the Bernese Oberlands.
One of the difficulties involved is the remoteness of the peak.
The traditional long approach from the village of Fiesch was taken. This required a long, all-day, 10-hour glacier ascent, meandering around
and across numerous crevasses and ice falls to reach the hut situated at the foot of the mountain.
Fortunately the fine weather continued and, after another 3.30 a.m. start, the party set off on the ascent of the Finsteraarhorn. This time they
were the only party on the mountain.

Finsteraarhorn

During the night the sky had remained clear and the snow was frozen hard, allowing crampons to be used.
This enabled a speedy ascent up the steep snow fields above the hut to a rocky ridge.
An interesting traverse of the ridge in a strong wind, typically experienced in high altitude climbing, brought tte party to
the summit, and another fine panorama including such well-known peaks as Monch, Jungfrau and the Eiger - the next on the itinerary.
Some problems were experienced in the descent in crossing crevasses and from potential avalanche prone slopes due to the softening of the snow in the fierce sun.

The Eiger:

Another day was taken in the walk out from the Finsteraarhorn hut and another in travelling around to the village of Lauterbrunnen
beneath the Eiger.
The weather had now deteriorated, but this was actually appreciated as this enforced two rest days before the next climb could be undertaken.
On the third day the sky cleared and in the evening the last train was taken to Kleine Scheidegg and then to the Elgergletcher station where
bunkhouse accommodation was used.
There were two other parties at breakfast - one destined for the Monch and the other for the Jungfrau.
Although photographs, maps and guidebooks had been well-studied, it was with some trepidation that the party roped
up and started the ascent of the Eiger such is its reputation.

On ascent of the Eiger

The route was the West Ridge, the "normal" route, and the one used for descent by North Face climbers.
Again snow conditions were favourable and crampons were used to ascend two snow fields leading to the rocky west ridge overlooking the North Face.
The ridge was followed, affording spectacular views of the Face before a step in the ridge was turned by traversing onto steep snow slopes which
continued to the summit at 12,902 feet.
The weather was exceptionally fine, and yet again, an excellent view over the peaks of the Bernese Oberlands was obtained - the Finsteraarhorn standing in
splendid isolation, the monarch of the Bernese Oberlands, Monch the neighbouring peak and Jungfrau next to Monch.

Mont Blanc:

The final climb in the programme was Mont Blanc at 15,623 feet, the highest in Western Europe.
From Lauterbrunnen the party drove through Switzerland and over the Forclaz Pass into France and down to Chamonix where they made camp.
Although the next day the weather continued to be good, the party lelt disinclined for the early start required for the two-day ascent and a rest day was enjoyed.
The first tram at 7.20 a.m. on the Mont Blanc mountain railway was then taken from Le Fayet on the subsequent day and this duly reached its
terminus at the foot of the Bionnassy Glacier at a height of 1709 feet.
A short climb led to a first hut at Tete Rouge at a height of 10,293 feet.
From there, a further 2,000 ft climb had to be undertaken but this time involving the crossing a dangerous couloir and the ascent of a steep rocky ridge, leading to the second
hut — Refuge de Gouter at 12,555 ft where the night was spent.
The weather had drastically deteriorated, having clouded over with a strong wind blowing and it was snowing heavily - not at all auspicious.
At the normal start time of 2.00 a.m. the conditions were still bad. However, at 4.00 a.m., the clouds cleared and the climb was begun.

Normal route of ascent on Mont Blanc

It was still dark and torchies were used for the initial period .
From the hut, the route first ascended the steep slopes of the Dome, an outlier of Mont Blanc, before contouring round to Les Bosses, the fine snow ridge leading
to the summit.
A breather was taken on reaching Refuge Vallot, a small emergency shelter at the foot of Les Bosses.
The climb had now taken the party up through the clouds into the welcome rising morning sun.
A strenuous climb up the Les Bosses through the deep, fresh snow led to a final knife-edge ridge to the summit.
Only the tops of other major peaks were to be seen protruding above the sea of clouds including that of the Aiguille du Midi.

A leisurely four-day drive brought the party back to Bearsden. This had been the sixth such Alplne expedition by members of the Unit.

Three young Bearsden men have just returned from a climbing holiday in the Alps and the Dolomites during which they reached the top of Mont Blanc, climbed
most of the way up the Matterhorn and chalked up an impressive tally of other peaks.

They are Dick Jenkins (22), Bruce McKenzie (21), and Alan Ingram (29).
Alan, who is the leader of the Bearsden Venture Scout Unit, is the most experienced climber of the three, with more than 10 years of mountaineering behind him, while Derek and
Bruce have ﬁve and six years’ experience respectively. Derek and Bruce are former members of the Venture Scout Unit.
During their travels the three visited six countries - France, Switzerland, Italy, Austria, Germany and Belgium - driving in an elderly Austin A40 motor car
which managed most of the homeward journey firing on only three engine cylinders.

Mont Blanc:

They left home on Tuesday, July 18, and their ﬁrst goal was the village of Chamonix in the French Alps.
From Chamonix they set out for Mont Blanc, starting by mountain railway. The climb and return journey took two days —
they stayed overnight in a mountain hut, Aiguille du Gouter, at an altitude of about 12,520 feet of the 15,780 feet mountain.
They took the route over the top of another mountain, the 14,117 feet Dome de Gouter and reached the summit of Mont Blanc at 8 a.m. on July 24.

On ascent of Mont Blanc

Matterhorn:-

In Switzerland the climbers stayed in the village of Tasch, a few miles from Zermatt.
There Alan and Derek, the two most experienced men, attempted the Matterhorn. They reached as high as the Solvay Hut at 13,130 feet but then had to give
up - they had set out too late in the day and also because of difficulties in route finding.

Monte Rosa from Solvah Hut on the Matterhorn

Monte Rosa from Solvay Hut

on the Matterhorn

Dolomites:-

In the Dolomites in Italy, they aimed for the highest peak, Piz Boe ( 10,339 ft ) and made a successful ascent before moving on to Austria where, in the Stubai Valley
they really went to town.

On ascent of Piz Boe

Stubai Alps:-

In one day’s climbing in the valley they traversed the Wilder Freiger (11,214feet), the Wilder Pfaff (11,339 feet) and the Zuckerhutl (11,496 feet).
They were very proud of their exploits in the Stubai Valley. This was quite an adventurous climb ” said Bruce.
"We were told that the Zuckerhutl was too far for us to manage but we made it".

On traverse of Stubai Alps

About their climbing in general Bruce commented: " We didn't have any real worries. We were concentrating too much on climbing to worry about the heights".

He would certainly do it all again, “because we didn’t get any view from the top of Mont Blanc — it was too misty."
He has reservations, however, about trying the Matterhorn.
"One grim memory of their holiday which they carry is of when, while descending from the Matterhorn, they found a camera belonging to an
American climber who had been killed in a fall there two weeks previously.
They handed it in to the guardian at the Hornli hut at the foot of the mountain and it would probably be returned to the dead climber’s relatives.

As well as climbing they found time for some general sight-seeing. The famous Italian lakes, Maggiori, Lecco and Como were among the places
they visited, as well as the Olympic Stadium at Munich returning through Germany along the most attractive stretch of the River Rhine.
Their faulty engine had prevented them from returning via the Gross Glockener Pass on the Italian-Austrian border which is
reckoned to be the highest road pass in Europe, choosing a less demanding crossing.

Recently returned from this year’s summer expedition of the Bearsden Venture Scout Unit are Ian and Russel Stewart and Alan Ingram.
They left Bearsden at the end of June and, during their four week trip, travelled through Germany, Austria, ltaly, Switzerland and France,
clumbing several major alpine peaks en route.

After driving overnight to Dover and passing through France, Belgium and Luxemburg, trouble was experienced on the Friday evening when their Ford Transit‘s
cylinder head gasket blew. This resulted in an unscheduled extra three-day stay in Germany until repairs were effected on the Monday.

Ford Transit Beakdown

Fortunately, no further troubles were to be experienced with the Transit, despite the large number of alpine passes that were crossed.
Moving into Austria via Salzburg, camp was established near the southern end of the Felber road tunnel, ready for the first climb in the programme.

Camp

Gross Venediger:

This was to be the Gross Venediger which, at a height of 3674m ( 11,940ft ) is one of the highest in Austria.
The good weather which had been enjoyed since leaving Bearsden continued on the next day, and the group climbed first to the Alte Prager hut at 2489m ( 8090ft) and then
to the Neue Prager hut at 2796m ( 9087ft ), where they spent the night.
After a 4 a.m. breakfast the climb proper was begun.
Reaching the snow-line the party roped up and got out their ice-axes. The route wound its way upwards through a crevassed snowfield to a short
steep ascent to the final narrow summit ridge. A fine panoramic view was obtained, including the majestic peak of the Gross Glockner, the highest in Austria.
This had been climbed by members of the Unit on a previous trip.

On Gross Venediger

From Austria the party drove through Northern Italy, where spectacular views of the Dolomites were gained.
Athough none were on the programme for this trip, several were earmarked for possible future expeditions.

The route to Switzerland involved the crossing of some nine alpine passes. From the top of one — the Furka, they experienced a truly awe
inspiring vision of the vast bulk of Mont Blanc, dominating the skyline.
Continuing on the journey, camp was made at the Swiss village of Tasch, the nearest it is possible to get by private car to Zermatt.

Breithorn:

With the good weather still continuing, - the mountain railway was used next day to reach Zermatt, and then three cable cars to access the Theodulgletcher.
This was then traversed during now deteriorating weather conditions to reach an Italian hut, Refugio de Teodulo at 3317m ( 10,805ft ).
At the normal starting time of 3 a.m. the weather was still bad, but during a late breakfast at 7 a.m. the clouds suddenly cleared, to reveal impressive
views, particularly of the nearby Matterhorn.

Matterhorn

Leaving the hut in the now improved conditions the party made a successful ascent of the Breithorn ( 4165m, 13,500ft ) one of the over-4000m alps.
Good views of the Gornergletcher far below were obtained from the summit, but the neighbouring peaks of the Matterhorn and Monte Rosa were hidden in cloud.
On the descent back to Zermatt however, fine views of these peaks and the Breithorn itself materialized.

Breithorn

Next day, after a late start, the group drove over the Grimsel pass and round to Grindelwald at the foot of the north face of the Eiger.
Although it had been intended to do a climb from Grindelwald, this was called off as, even after three days, the group were still suffering
from sunburn received on the Breithorn climb.
Departing from Grindelwald, still in blazing sunshine, the route led through Switzerland, over the Forclaz pass into France, Chamonix, and into
thunderstorms and a period of unsettled weather.

Mont Blanc:-

Four days of cloudy weather later the skies cleared one evening to reveal the snow covered mass of Mont Blanc — the next target.
The climbing sacks were packed and, at first light, the train to the Bionassay glacier was taken.
A 2,000 ft. climb gained the first hut at Tete Rouge tor lunch and a further 2,000 ft. up a steep rocky ridge gained the Gouter Hut ( 3817m, 12,405ft ).
During the second leg of the climb the weather had again deteriorated, and the hut was reached in heavy mist and a hailstorm. In the evening
however, the clouds were to sink, leaving the hut exposed in clear skies and brilliant sunshine, surveying a sea of clouds.
At 2 a.m. the skies overhead were still cloud free, but now pitch black and illuminated by a crescent moon and miriads of stars.
Setting off from the hut, still during darkness, torches were used for the climb over the Dome de Gouter to Refuge Vallot.
For the first time crampons were necessary as well as the rope and ice axes.

On Mont Blanc

Emerging from the refuge after a short breather the party saw that the sun had risen to display the final steep ridge to the summit towering above the hut.
The fierce wind normally experienced in high level alpine mountaineering temporarily abated during the ascent of the ridge, giving very pleasant conditions.
From the summit of Mont Blanc ( 4807m, 15,623ft ) magnificent views of the surrounding alps were to be seen before a rapid descent to escape from the wind which
had risen again.

On Mont Blanc

On the way down assistance had lo be given to a party of ltalian climbers to cross a notorious ice filled couloir ( gully ).
With the climbing programme now brought to a successful conclusion, the party spent some five days leisurely driving back through France, spending a day in Paris
before a final overnight drive back to Bearsden.

A student and a lecturer at Hamilton’s Bell College will return there soon with photographs and
memories of a slightly more adventurous holiday than most
For student Colin Wilson and Lecturer Alan Ingram spent their summer climbing in the Swiss and Italian alps.
The third member of the group was James Cullen of the Bearsden Venture Unit of which Alan was the Leader.

Balmhorn:-

An initial climb in their summer programme was the Balmhom ( 12,022ft ) near Kandersteg in the Bernese Oberlands.
The weather was somewhat uncertain when they set out from the Schwarenbach Hut but they were soon rewarded for their endeavours when they reached the top and gained a
magnificent panorama of the entire Alps ranging from the Eiger to Mont Blanc.

On the Balmhorn

From Kandersteg the party travelled to Grindelwald where they had intended to climb the Schreckhorn.
However this had to be abandoned because the Strahleg hut on the mountain had been closed after being damaged by an avalanche.

Lauterbrunnen Breithorn:

The intrepid threesome then decided instead to attempt the Lauterbrunnen Briethorn - but again their luck was out as they
had to turn back not long after setting off by huge crevasses completely spanning the glacier beneath the summit.

On Lauterbrunnen Breithorn

Weisshorn:

The party then moved on to Randa just south of Zermatt where they met with success in climbing the Weisshorn - one of the 4000 meter peaks of the Alps - and, at
14,641 feet, is one of the highest mountains in Western Europe.
The view from the top included the major peaks of the Matterhorn, Zinalrothorn and Dente Blanche.

On Weisshorn

Dent d'Herens:

The party drove from Switzerland over the Great St. Bernard Pass into Italy and up the alpine valley of Vallpelline where they camped at the road end.
A five-hour hike, rising 3000 feet through forests and meadows gained the Aosta hut at the foot of Dent D’Herens ( 13,582ft ).
Again a successful ascent was made via a steep narrow rocky ridge resulting in a spectacular, close-up view of the nearby Matterhorn.

Matterhorn from Dent d'Herens

Just returned from a climbing and touring trip round the Swiss, ltalian and Austrian Alps are John Blackhurst, Calum Stewart and Alan Ingram of the Bearsden Venture Scout Unit.

Wildstrubel:

A first ascent was made of the l0,640 feet Wildstrubel in the Bernese Oberlands with the 24th Bearsden Scout Group staying at the International Scout Chalet in Kandersteg.

Wildstrubel

Gran Paradiso:

The party of three drove south over the Great St. Bernard Pass to Aosta in north west ltaly,
and up to the head of the Alpine valley of Valsavaranche where they made camp amidst snow-covered peaks.

Val d'Aosta

Jaguar 420

Next day in a burning sun they climbed to the mountain hut, Vittorio Emanuele, at a height of 8,800 feet.
The following morning after rising at 3.30 a.m. they made their way with the aid of crampons and ice-axes to the summit of the Gran Paradiso, 13,200 feet - one of the
more than 4,000 metre sumits of the Alps - from where they gained a magnificent view over the rest of the Alps including Mont Blanc, the Matterhorn and Monte Rosa.

Gran Paradiso

Dolomites:

From Valsavaranche the party drove to Canazei in the heart of the Dolomites in the German speaking part of north east Italy.
Here they climbed the highest mountain of the Dolomites, the l0,900 feet Marmalado.
This again involved climbing up a glacier and crossing crevasses requiring the use of ropes, ice-axes and crampons, but the final pitch to
the summit ridge was a steep rock face.

Marmalado

Gross Glockner:

From Canazei the group proceeded to Austria after a spectacular drive through the Dolomites.
They camped at Heiligenblut just beneath the toll road over the Gross Glockner Pass.
Here the front brake pads of their Jaguar had to be replaced.
From this camp an Alpine start was made at 4 a.m. and they drove up to the Freiwandeck hut at 8,000 feet for the ascent of
the Grossglockner, the highest mountain in Austria.
From the road, unfortunately they had to descend some 600 feet onto the glacier, and this had to be re-climbed on the return - a sting in the tail.
After a walk of some two miles across the glacier the climb proper was started.
Again, as on the previous climbs, the ascent was a mixture of snow and rock climbing.
At 11.30 a.m. however, the party stood on the summit of the 12,350 feet mountain.

Gross Glockner

Leaving Austria the group drove through Switzerland to set up camp at Stechelberg in the Bernese Oberlands.

Jungfrau:

In the following days the party first climbed above the valley to overnight in the Rotal Hut - this was unoccupied and they had the hut to themselves. Next morning they climbed the NW Ridge of the Jungfrau - the original ascent route and successfully gained the summit. However the conditions had deteriorated and the mountain was now shrouded in dense cloud. Rather than descend to the Rotal Hut it was decided to descend the far side of the Jungfrau. Still in white-out conditions and encountering heavily-crevassed snow slopes, a night was spent in a snow hole. Fortunately, early in the morning, the clouds cleared and a way down was seen to the Jungfraujoch. An expensive trip in the mountain railway returned them to Klein Scheidegg and hence back to Stechelberg.